Underfloor Heating Conservatory wintergarden

Heating technology Floor heating Heating engineering Building technology Installation

Floor heating Electric floor heating Electrical floor heating Electric thin-bed heating mats Tile heating Bathroom heating Thin-bed heating Electric heating Parquet heating Laminate heating Foot heating mat Raychem

UnderFloor heating Anti-chill heating
Not all electric floor heating systems are the same
Electric floor heating is safe, cheap and reliable
Heated floor

The low-cost heating systems for taking the chill of the floor in the bathroom, kitchen, nursery or conservatory (frost protection), with the brand-name thermostat from Eberle.

Electric floor heating for stone floors, tiles, parquet or e.g. even beneath dry floors for renovation of old buildings!

Back to homepage http://www.soldron.de

Laying the heating mat.

The benefits of the 3-wire heating mat:

Timed heating of floor,

How much heat is conducted downwards.

Electrical consumption

please phone the following number if you have any questions:
Heating equipment
Soldron Wrmetechnik Vertriebs GmbH
Ringstrae 17, 97950 Grorinderfeld
Tel/Fax: 09349/ 768
even in the evenings or at the weekend

Example of laying tiles in bathroom:

If the animated clip does not start automatically, click the lower picture:

The 3-wire system:

Our latest addition to the Warmtouch product line is the 3-wire system which you will find both in the heating cables and the heating mats.
The development of the 3-wire system is a revolution for installing heating mats and heating cables. Unlike the conventional heating mats, this type has only one connection lead to be connected up to the junction box. Conventional heating mats have a connection lead at both ends of the mat and both have to be connected to the junction box.

In the case of a 3-wire heating mat, you only have to plan the location of the junction box and can connect up the heating element without having to route the return lead.

Look at!

Underfloor Heating

How quickly does the heating mat warm a tiled floor?

The following table shows how long it takes to warm up the rooms with different thicknesses of flooring and different heating power ratings:

1C increase in temperature in minutes:
Floor thickness:


2 cm

Thin flooring

3 cm

Normal thickness

4 cm

Normal thickness

5 cm

Thick flooring

6 cm



8 cm



10 cm

Flooring on base concrete

15 cm

Heating power:
120 Watt/m
5.5 min
8.3 min
11.1 min
13.8 min
16.6 min
22 min
27.7 min
41.6 min
160 Watt/m
4.1 min
6.2 min
8.3 min
10.4 min
12.5 min
16.6 min
20.8 min
31.2 min
200 Watt/m
3.3 min
5 min
6.6 min
8.3 min
10 min
13.3 min
16.6 min
25 min
250 Watt/m
2.6 min
4 min
5.3 min
6.6 min
8 min
10.8 min
13.3 min
20.0 min
300 Watt/m
2.2 min
3.3 min
4.4 min
5.5 min
6.6 min
8.8 min
11.1 min
16.6 min

The figures given in the table only refer to the heating of the flooring surface itself. The fact that heat is lost into the room during the heating period itself is not taken into consideration.
If this is to be factored in, roughly 20 - 30% must be added to the time.

Colour limitations:

Not permitted, possible with restrictions, possible, no restrictions.

To answer this question you first need to know how much heat energy it takes to raise the temperature of the entire floor structure by one degree.

For this we need the specific heat capacity of a concrete floor;
this is 1000 Joules per kg.
The specific heat capacity of a substance tells us how much energy (in Joules) is required to heat it by one C.

We also need the density of the floor covering; this is between 1.8 and 2.4 kg/dm, for which, for the sake of simplicity, we will assume is 2.0 kg/dm.

This means that 1 square metre of floor covering of a height of 1 cm has a mass of 20 kg.
A 5 cm thick floor covering therefore has a mass of 100 kg.

To raise these 100 kg by 1C we therefore need 1000 Joules per kg. Multiplied by 100 = 100,000 Joules.

A 160 Watt/M heating mat generates heating output of exactly 160 Joule=Watt * sec.

Consequently we only need to divide the 100,000 Joules by 160 Joules to obtain the time of 625 seconds, or 10.4 mins.

With a 160 Watt/m heating mat, a 5cm thick floor covering heats up by one C every 10.4 min.

Notes on temperatures

22 - 23C feels cool initially

(touch the table top in a heated room),

24 - 25C feels neither warm nor cold,

26 - 27C is noticeably warm.

The temperatures of the unheated floor are approx.

15 - 17C in heated cellar floor

18 - 20C in heated living rooms, up to

20 - 22C in heated bathrooms.

This means that the floor needs to be heated by a minimum of 3C and a maximum of 10C to take the chill off it.

During this time the maximum output of the heating mat is required.

This is considerably quicker at 200 Watt/m than at 160 Watt/m or even 120 Watt/m, meaning that you do not have to switch the heating on so far in advance.

Look at!

Undertile Heating

How much heat is conducted downwards?
k-value = thermal conductivity value / insulation thickness

If the floor plate is thermally insulated underneath with e.g. 5cm of polystyrene with a thermal conductivity value of 0.04 W/m*K, this insulation has a k-value of 0.8 W/(m*K).

Therefore, if the concrete floor beneath the insulation has a temperature of 18C and the floor plate with the tiles is 26C, from 18C to 26C = 8C times 0.8 Watt/(m*K), meaning that 6.4 Watts per square metre are "lost" downwards.
With a polystyrene thickness of 2.5 cm this would mean a loss of 12.8 Watt per square metre.

This heat energy is naturally not lost entirely as it warms the concrete base to a small extent, meaning that, over time, less heat can escape downwards.

How much heating does e.g. a conservatory need?

A conservatory built onto the side of a house, with 8m x 4m = 32m of floor space has roughly 4m+8m+4m)x2.5m = 40m of conservatory windows, added to which is possibly a further 20m of roof glazing, making a total glazed area of 60m.

Assuming the windows have a k-value of 1W/(m*K), the outdoor temperature is -15C and the desired indoor temperature is a comfortable 22C, the required heating output is -15C - 22C = 37C + 60m glazed area resulting in 2220 Watts.

If 12m of 200 Watt/m heating mats have been laid in the conservatory, this would just about be sufficient.
(As a rule of thumb: if a tiled floor is 1C warmer than the air in the room, the floor will emit 10 Watt/m of heating power into the room).

However, in order to emit 2.2 kW of heating power into the conservatory
(2220 Watt/12m = 185 Watt/m, the floor heating should therefore be 18.5C warmer than the room)

this floor heating area would have to be heated to 40.5C, which would be unpleasantly warm.

So you have to increase the heating area!

With 24 m of heating space (2220 Watt/12m = 92.5 Watt/m, the heated floor would have to be 9.25C warmer than the room), the heated floor would only need a temperature of 31C.

Another example:

For frost protection in the same conservatory.

Assuming the windows have a k-value of 1W/(m*K), the outdoor temperature is -15C and the desired indoor temperature should be at least 3C, the required heating output is -15C - 3C = 18C * 60m glazed area resulting in 1080 Watts required heating power.

However, to emit this 1080W heating power in the conservatory (1080 Watts/12m = 90 Watt/m, the heated floor would have to be 9C warmer than the room itself), this heated floor surface would have to be heated to 12C.

A brief example to explain electricity consumption costs!

At a power cost of approx. 0.15/kWh and a heating period of 30 minutes for taking the chill off the bathroom floor, this would result in total output of 600 Watt/unit, i.e. 4.5 cents per day.

The heating mats must first use all their power to warm up the cold floor covering and the tiles to 27C. In this case, the system would probably heat for the entire duration. (Warm-up)
Assumes thermal insulation beneath floor covering.

Another example:
At a power cost of approx. 0.15/kWh and a heating period of 300 minutes for taking the chill off the living room floor, this would result in total output of 1600 Watt/unit (10m), i.e. 0.15 per day.

We assume that the living room is heated to a temperature of 22C by a different heating source, and that the floor is warmed to 24C.
The heating mat then only needs to replace 200 Watts for 10m "loss-compensation" (heat which escapes into the living room). (Maintaining temperature)
Assumes thermal insulation beneath floor covering.

Please read carefully - important for understanding floor heating:

If 160 Watt/m floor heating is fitted in a room with floor tiles, the heating only consumes 160 Watt/m during the warm-up period, e.g. from 18C to the target floor temperature of 24C.

At 160 Watt/m rating this is of course correspondingly faster than 120 Watt/m - and you save time in the warm-up phase.

Subsequently the floor heating, i.e. from the surface of the floor tiles, only releases approx. 10 Watt/m heating power into the room for each degree Celsius warmer than the room itself.

Roughly half of the heat is released into the room in the form of infrared heat, i.e. radiant heat.

If the temperature in the room is 22C and the floor is 24C, the floor heating would then only release 20 Watt/m into the room.

If the room is warmed e.g. by the sun to 24C, the floor heating will release no more heat at all into the room and therefore not consume any more electricity. This is the self-regulation effect of floor heating."

The high percentage of radiant heat in floor heating means that the room temperature can easily be turned down by several degrees to e.g. 20C, and it will still be perceived as pleasantly warm.

A floor temperature of 21C is felt as warm (the emphasis here is on the feeling of comfort created by floor heating - the prime source of heating is e.g. radiators).

In this case the floor heating would only release 10 Watt/m into the room.

With a heating area of e.g. 10 m and a rating of 10 Watt/m this would result in electricity costs of 0.15 for 10 hours at a price of 0.15/kHz.
This assumes adequate thermal insulation beneath the floor base.

In an extreme case, a 160 Watt/m floor heating system would heat a room from 20C to 36C (i.e. one degree per 10 Watts) if it were not limited by the thermostat to approx. 28-29C.

If the floor plate is thick enough, e.g. 8cm (e.g. heating base from Knauf) and if the customer has access to suitably low-cost storage heating electricity, it is also possible to heat an entire apartment or individual rooms with night storage underfloor heating. The investment costs are relatively low. If the intention is to use the underfloor system as the main source of heating, it is important to use low-cost night storage current.

The consumption costs: i.e. one litre of heating oil provides 10kW/h of chemical energy although only 80-90% is actually used as heat in the flat (boiler, radiation and chimney losses). In the case of electricity, however, 100% is given up to the floor surface. And there are no costs for chimney sweeps, boiler maintenance or fume emission measurement.

Look at!

Undertile Heating

Look at!

Underfloor Heating

[Conditions of sale and delivery] [PriceList][Picture-PriceList as word.doc][Look at Set-Offer] [Detailed product information Laying tips]